Thursday, 6 September 2018

Nana pants mark 2

I only went in to Fabric Deluxe to get thread you know...

And there I found the perfect heavy knit fabric for more pull on pants. the kind of hefty nana-ish knit I was talking about back when I made these lighter weight ponte pull on pants.


But these ones aren't the same pattern (the others were V9284). This time I tried out the Anne Klein Vogue pattern V1517

How did I discover I had a second pattern for seamed, pull on knit pants? Well, I ended up with a few really lovely hides of navy leather at a very cheap price and suddenly remembered I had a pattern for a leather jacket. Lo and behold the same pattern yielded some pull on pants. How did I come to score a pile of leather hides? Well I went out to Eliza's to try and get a zipper.... :) (you know how it goes)


So I got my thread (and my zipper and leather) and then bought some of this heavy weight knit. It's a charcoal grey rib on one face and a matte black, smooth ponte type on the reverse. It was somewhat narrower than the average knit at only 135cm and I was keen to avoid any leftovers. I plumped for 1.25m after reading, then disregarding, the pattern fabric requirements on my phone at the store. (it only lists 150cm wide knit and suggests 1.6m).

I traced the size 12 (after measuring exactly as per the size 14 - but I'm learning) and then overlaid the pattern pieces from the V9284 pants. The legs looked very similar but the rise was much shorter on these ones. So I added 1" depth at the crotch lengthen/shorten line and another 1" length at the lower leg lengthen/shorten line. And with those changes it just fit on my fabric with nothing left to spare. (I had to cut some pieces upside down and if direction mattered you'd need 150cm wide fabric or to double the yardage)


Size and fit wise I think I was mostly correct. Certainly sizing down was right and I think the extra length at both positions was a good call. I love how the back rise of my other pants allows me to cycle without looking like a tradie who's lost his driver's license. These ones afford a similar coverage now.

The back seams are set a bit too far to the sides from above the knee. They're fairly centered on my calves but need to come more to the midline from there up. The only other review I could find of these pants suggested the same thing.


They're certainly comfortable and while they suffer the same existential crisis as my other pull-on pants (real pants or trackpants - what are you?) I've been wearing them around the house as well as out once and they're not half bad.

The waistband is 2" wide elastic which is sewn to the inside and left exposed. I cut it a good inch shorter than the pattern piece and it's perfect - although maybe I should have taken in that centre back seam first to avoid those pucker-y gathers.


I thought I had 2" wide elastic in my stash, but it was only 1.5" and that wouldn't have covered the waistband seam allowances. I dashed out to Vo-Le where she had exactly what I needed at only $1.50/m (best table tennis and sewing notions shop in the world!)

The pattern was very quick to sew. I used the overlocker for all the seams then the twin needle to edgestitch/topstitch the front and back seams and hem the waistband and ankles.


I think these pants are occupying that middle ground where they don't look like activewear, or trackpants, but they're not formal, proper trousers either. They're nana pants and I'm liking them. But I do wonder if my mum might like them more.... ;)

Of course I traced off the jacket pattern and that will need a muslin or two before chopping into my leather. Perhaps that can be my Frocktails jacket in case of cold weather. Are you coming to Frocktails? Have an outfit plan yet?

Details:
Pattern: Vogue V1517
Size: 12
Fabric: ribbed double knit from fabric Deluxe
Modifications: 1" extra rise length, 1" extra lower leg length

Notions:2" wide waistband elastic, thread.




3 comments:

  1. Thanks for the detailed review! I'm looking for a pattern for some heavy knit that I think will make great pullon pants. Maybe if I left off the stiched down creases?

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    Replies
    1. Of course you could, but if you don't want the centre seams then there are lots of single pattern piece leggings pattern out there that would be much easier than combining this pattern into one piece. Hope you find your pull on pants pattern.

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  2. Interesting thought about knit pants/nanna pants, they look great but like you I can't quite make pants in the gorgeous Ponte I have in the stash.

    Oh Frocktails, I keep changing directions on my outfit.

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