Thread Theory love: Newcastle cardigan and Camas blouse muslin

I hadn't planned on showing you my Camas blouse* until I'd made a second one with some fit changes, but, truth is, I've been wearing it heaps and it's a great pattern, and Thread Theory are having a sale, so how could I not share?! Click on the picture link below to shop the thread Theory website and take advantage of their sale.

The blouse is a knit shirt with the option of functional or faux button placket, and with shoulder and back yokes that can be the same or a contrast fabric.

I had some small pieces of Liberty lawn, and there was exactly enough (from a fat 1/8th) to make the yokes and I had some T-shirt cotton that was lying around. Perfect for a test run....

I made a straight size 14, and with the thicker t-shirt cotton and the size I feel it's a bit boxy. For my final draft I've picked a slinkier viscose jersey, sized down one size and added a bit of length through the waist. I'm super excited about how it will turn out!

 



I don't have much in the way of a bust, and certainly can't boast a cleavage as such, so I was nervous about the low front, but it sits at exactly the right spot. Low cut, but not indecent, and, as the next photo shows, it get's the photographer husband tick of approval :)

I happened to have just the right number of grey linen covered buttons leftover from this shirt turned dress and they're not a bad match.

The pattern was a delight to sew, and I have the next one cut out and ready to go. Stay tuned...

Now,... Do you remember the Newcastle cardigan that I made for my dad, and Roger stole the show with his turn at modelling? Well, he asked nicely enough for one of his own in the same fabric, so that was his Christmas present sorted. He requested pockets and red lining. I almost fulfilled his wishes...

My dad had given me feedback that the lining, while soft and pleasant was too catchy to wear the cardigan over long sleeves. His had been lined with a cotton jersey. It seemed I needed proper slippery lining, but also needed to retain the stretch.

If you're wondering why I'm talking lining for a cardigan which is normally unlined (by the pattern instructions) then I should explain: the faux quilted main fabric has an awful black, scratchy interfacing type reverse side. It needed something behind it.

I asked around and discovered stretch woven lining. It feels just like normal lining but has enough lycra to have some reasonable stretch in one direction. Perfect. Only problem was I couldn't find any colours in bricks and mortar shops around town (I'd left it too late for buying the perfect red off the 'net).

Eventually I found this pewter grey which I thought was ideal, and snuck in the red by using some quilting cotton from the stash for bias binding on the facing edge and for a label background. I guess that's one reason for hanging onto some bits of quilting cotton right there.

Adding a lining is quite simple. I had thought to take pictures and turn it into a tutorial but this was sewn during some very late nights leading up to Christmas, and if I'm sewing until 2am for a few days straight, I ain't taking photos as I go!

I cut the front, back and sleeves from lining. After sewing the shoulder seams of the lining I added it at the point where the front button plackets are attached. Then it's just a matter of attaching all four sleeves, before sewing all four side seams, being conscious of keeping everything from getting twisted up. While it adds a bit of sewing it does save on finishing any seams and I think I'd do this every time now.

The pockets were inspired by these ones that Meredith of Thread Theory did when she made a Newcastle cardigan for herself. Only I decided mine should have a curved turned down bit that echoed the shape of the shawl collar. Then I thought they should be lined, and then that they should be fussy cut to match the pattern of the jacket. Somehow these all seemed like rational thoughts when I was self drafting a pocket after midnight on a weeknight!

I was very excited when I bought more of the main buttons to discover a smaller version that was just right for the pockets.

This cardigan had the same extra length in the body and the GWA (Grandpa Waist Adjustment) of my first one, but this time I got the recalculation of the button spacing right, so it has the correct number of buttons down the front.

The finished cardigan was wrapped and left under the tree at my parents house for Roger who was visiting after we'd left. Of course I left instructions about photographing it, but forgot to say I'd already taken some on the hanger shots.

He artfully composed some suitably rustic shots by the back door...

But then all his modelled shots failed to work with the exception of this "side elevation" of the model preparing himself:

 

 

As we're now experiencing rolling summer heatwaves we're all going to have to wait until fireside, port drinking weather comes back around and I can coax Roger into another blog appearance.

 

* I was given the Camas blouse pattern in exchange for some publicity. I'm sure you know my enthusiasm for Thread Theory patterns is entirely genuine and that I can't be bought!